The power of story and the rise of Harvest-to-Plate
Blayne and Chayse Bertoncello of O.My in Beaconsfield at their first site in 2018 standing by some end of season pumpkin growth, and a quote by Noma's René Redzepi "Most big decisions we've made started with the two words: fuck it". (Source: Sascha Rust)
The early morning at O.MY Restaurant in Beaconsfield marks the start of a day where the team surveys what the farm and their network of harvesters have provided. At the unassuming backdoor, opening out to a car park behind the small restaurant, there's a box full of recently harvested seafood by local fishermen like Luke Anedda from Corner Inlet. This scene epitomizes the profound transformation known as direct sourcing or harvest-to-plate, which redefines the food industry by fostering direct, transparent relationships that emphasize trust, quality, and environmental stewardship.
These ideas transcend traditional purchasing; cultivating meaningful relationships with those who grow, catch, and cultivate our food. It is a way of thinking inspired by pioneers like Alice Waters and Dan Barber, that has been advanced by leading chefs worldwide, including Blayne. In the 1970's, after opening Chez Panisse in Berkeley, California, Waters championed this philosophy that deeply connected diners with local, seasonal food sources, advocating for organic and regenerative practices that support small farms and highlight the environmental and public health benefits of sustainable food production.
Today, Waters is still recognized as the grand dame of sustainable cuisine, and has inspired thousands. Meanwhile, Dan Barber, has become known for his similar philosophical musings on food and an incredible farm and restaurant, Blue Hill at Stone Barns in the Pocantico Hills, north of New York City. The approach at this restaurant, where the farm is an extension of the kitchen, is a beacon of such a holistic view of food production that begins with soil health and ends with the last bite on the plate.
For Barber, such thinking extends far beyond the restaurant and the fields. His influential book, "The Third Plate," has become a seminal reference for many, exemplifying the power of storytelling in advocating for a radical shift in our food systems towards sustainability and ecological awareness.
“All I have ever wanted as a chef is to be able to tell the truth to my guests about where my product has come from, who caught or farmed it, and ensure that it is as fresh as it can be.”
Meanwhile, in Beaconsfield, an unassuming outer suburb of Melbourne, Victoria, Bertoncello continues on this deep commitment to an ethos of true harvest-to-plate. Alongside his brother Chayse, in 2013 they transformed a historic 150-year-old post office into a renowned destination supported by a nearby farm managed by the team. Years passed driving this idea, and even when a devastating fire damaged the original site, it only underscored their unwavering commitment, rebuilding O.MY at its new site around the corner. A successful GoFundMe campaign to support this effort, further proves how meaningful aspirations have the power to rally community support.
O. My Farm, Beaconsfield, Victoria (Source: O.My Restaurant)
The larder at the original O. My Restaurant site (Source: Sascha Rust)
Blayne’s philosophy centres around a simple yet profound commitment: "All I have ever wanted as a chef is to be able to tell the truth to my guests about where my product has come from, who caught or farmed it, and ensure that it is as fresh as it can be." This dedication to transparency and quality transcends the typical business model, turning each meal into a narrative that connects diners to the realities of food production and the uniqueness of the seasons. It also however requires careful planning. Both the farm and the restaurant must work in harmony with each other, requiring particular creativity and adaptability in both cases. The same can be said for working with their network of harvesters, as the reality of oceans and farms, is things aren’t always available when you expect them to be. But rather than a hinderance, the team embraces this as the parameters which define a guest experience that drove the restaurant to be awarded Australia's Restaurant of the Year in 2023.
“But rather than a hinderance, the team embraces this as the parameters which define a guest experience that drove the restaurant to be awarded Australia’s Restaurant of the Year in 2023”
Behind these ideas are real commitments that, like Alice Waters and Dan Barber, extend well beyond the kitchen. In Blayne's case, this means speaking up and playing an active role in supporting harvesters such as his fisher Luke Anedda where required through political action and initiatives such as the Australian Marine Conservation Society’s GoodFish project. Programs like this, which celebrate sustainable seafood by connecting responsible fishers with conscious Australians, are both extracurricular to the running of a business but critical points of collaboration which exist at the root of harvest-to-plate as explored originally by Barber and Waters.
A dish of Duck and Broad Beans at O.My Restaurant (Source: O. My Restaurant)
All of these chefs, though they are wildly different people in different parts of the world under very different circumstances, are united by a philosophy that champions the narrative potential of food. Harvest-to-plate isn't just a method of sourcing; it's a powerful form of storytelling that allows chefs to celebrate the land, the people who tend it, and the communities that surround it. This form of culinary expression provides diners not only with a meal but also with the joy and flavour which comes from appreciating the seasons, and realities that exist beyond what we often think about in the world we all inhabit.
Alice Waters used her global platform to push for change in how we think about school lunches and urban food deserts, demonstrating how sustainable practices can be integrated into everyday life and reach every table. Dan Barber, through his writings and talks, challenges us to rethink our culinary demands and embrace dishes that reflect ecological realities and possibilities. Meanwhile, local champions like Blayne Bertoncello embed this message within the community fabric of individual cities and suburbs such as Beaconsfield, ensuring that each dish served at O.MY narrates part of a larger story of resilience, community, and sustainability.
In a world facing unprecedented challenges related to climate change and food security, the narratives spun by these chefs and their kitchens offer more than just sustenance. They offer a vision of what the future of food can look like: ethical, sustainable, and deeply connected to our places and communities. Through their efforts, they show that dining can be an act of environmental engagement, and that each choice made in the kitchen can resonate far beyond the confines of the dining room, influencing how we think about, grow, and consume our food on a global scale.
O.My Restaurant - https://www.omyrestaurant.com.au
Australian Marine Conservation Society: GoodFish Australia’s Sustainable Seafood Guide -https://www.goodfish.org.au